This guy was hanging around Dubrovnik harbor, throwing stuff around and letting out loud primal noises, all while a cigarette dangled gently at the tip of his lips
Thursday, May 23, 2013
Wednesday, May 22, 2013
Arriving in Dubrovnik, Croatia and beating the crowds
We finally arrived in Dubrovnik, Croatia. It is absolutely beautiful, maybe even the prettiest in Europe. It is whimsical and strong, fortified against both time and the sea with its huge old city walls.
Con los touristas
George Bernard Shaw once said "Those who seek paradise on earth should come to Dubrovnik." Over 2 million people seek this paradise each year - over half of which are from cruise ships. This means it is crowded, but we found plenty of ways to beat them. Early and late, the town is peaceful and quiet. Also, just outside the city walls is a different world, such as the one pictured above. You can make out the city wall in the background. This cove is quiet and peaceful, and it is also where many scenes are filmed in Game of Thrones.
Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina has a ton of character
Mostar does not hide its character. It is an Ottoman jewel with its history written in bullet holes, old cobbled streets, and the creases on the faces of old Mostarians. It is the rare place that is easier to picture 400 years ago than 20 years ago, when the Croat-Bosniak war tore the town to shreds, taking with it every bridge and several buildings as well as lives, but all the while, making the character of Mostar that much stronger.
Even the perfect Stari Most bridge that connects the city above the emerald Neretva river was destroyed, but it took an estimated 60 shells of tank fire to take down the 400 year old masterpiece.
In the early nineties, CNN called Mostar a permanent shooting gallery with 50 casualties per day. Every graveyard was full, so bodies were buried in parks. It was a war so complicated that after researching it for a couple days, I am even more confused than when I began. There is an old video at the end of this post if you want to see what Mostar was like 20 years ago.
Tuesday, May 21, 2013
The Dervish Monastary of Blagaj, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Surrounded by a waterfall and built into a cliff, this Tekija, or Dervish Monastery is incredibly gorgeous tucked in a little corner of Bosnia and Herzegovina called Blagaj.
Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque of Mostar
One of Bosnia and Herzgovina's most picturesque mosques sits quietly perched on a bank of the Neretva river. It is not extraordinary, but just looks perfect next to the flowing green river. Open since 1617, the mosque has been around since Ottoman times and flanks one of the oldest markets in Mostar, where travelers can buy local fruits, pomegranates, and honey.
Stari Most - the old bridge of Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Stari Most is considered to be one of the most gorgeous bridges in the world. First built in the 16th century in the Ottoman style, the bridge stood for over 400 years until being needlessly destroyed in the Croat-Bosniak War in 1993. The bridge was rebuilt using the old methods eleven years later in 2003.
The bridge connects both banks of Mostar and is flanked by two towers known as Mostari. Also, young men hurl themselves off of the river for thrills and have since as early as 1616. It is an over 75 foot drop.
Monday, May 20, 2013
Mostar's incredible divers
One of the best things about traveling is when you run into amazing people doing amazing things. Theses divers fulfill that daringly romantic side of travel. When they jump, the people of Mostar watch, and have been watching for hundreds of years.
The divers make a huge drama prior to jumping. They will come out, take donations, act as though they are about to make the plunge, and then disappear into their strange dive castle. They will return in different gear, tip toe the edges of the bridge over 75 feet up, stretch out over the bridge, cock their head from side to side while ignoring the masses huddled waiting for a plunge, and maybe head back again, to check email or eat gelato.
I saw one guy make the trip back and forth numerous times before finally emerging in a wet suit and hurling himself over the edge (above).
The food of Bosnia & Hercegovina
We did not know what to expect from Bosnian food. To properly acquaint ourselves, we ordered a massive platter of local specialties (pictured above) at an outdoor cafe just steps from the famous Stari Most bridge. From right, we had local onions, some kind of red sauce, sausages of lamb and veal which were incredible, Bosnian bread which tasted like the best parts of a grill, locally sourced sour cream and potatoes, some kind of extremely delicate beef brisket, spinach leaves stuffed with beef and rice, and cabbages stuffed with red pepper, meat, and other vegetables. Lastly, some incredible little patties of goodness which we have no idea as to the origination.
Sunday, May 19, 2013
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